R.L. Shep Publications

One of the best-known books on men's tailoring, "THE BLUE BOOK OF MEN'S TAILORING" is again available, now in an enlarged edition edited by R.L. Shep, which includes extensive and detailed excerpts from "The Blue Book of Etiquette for Men" (1905) by Charles Harcourt. Croonborg's original work has extensive patterns and illustrations for vests, trousers, and coats of all kinds - including occupational coats (livery, etc). This work is also notable for a large section on military uniforms of the United States, including descriptions, illustrations and tailoring drafts. Sections on cutting cloth and tailoring techniques are also included. 256 pp, 8 1/2 X 11, quality paperbound. ISBN: 0-914046-30-6 $29.95

Recent titles

WOMEN'S COSTUME 1877-1885: The Complete Dress and Cloak Cutter

by Charles Hecklinger

A new edition combining two tailoring books. Shows the rapid progression of fashion changes over nearly a decade (including the return of the bustle). Of particular interest are the many outer garments: jackets, sacks, oversacks, circulars, Talmas, surtouts and dolmans. Also includes notes on the status of women (and their emergence into the business world) and period etiquette.This is a valuable book for costumers, historians, museum curators and people interested in women's studies. 224 pp, 8 1/2 X 11, quality paperbound. ISBN: 0-914046-29-2 $24.95

EARLY VICTORIAN MEN

edited by R.L. Shep

The tailoring manual is the very rare book The Tailor's Masterpiece: All Kinds of Coats (1838 rev. ed) by George Walker. Including cutting drafts and instructions for a full range of coats: Dress Coats, Frock Coats, Great Coats, Box Coats, Livery and Quaker Coats, etc. As well as jackets, capes, juvenile dresses, waistcoats, and uniforms. Supplemented by the full text of Hints on Etiquette and the Usages of Society. published in 1836. Plus original fashion plates from Modes de Paris 1836-1838. A valuable book on an important period for costumers, teachers, and historians! 224 pp, 8 1/2 X 11, quality paperbound. ISBN: 0-914046-28-4 $23.95

REGENCY ETIQUETTE: The Mirror of Graces

by A Lady of Distinction, 1811

This important work covers the manners and customs of late 18th and early 19th century society. In large part devoted to 'The English Ladies Costume' it includes charming fashion illustrations, as well as rare additional fashion plates from contemporary sources. Deals also with deportment, movement, the correct dances, propriety and aids to beauty and health. Indispensable for anyone interested in the times of the early United States, English Regency, Jane Austen, Napoleon, War of 1812 and beyond. Original text is enlarged for easier reading. 272 pp, 5 1/2 X 8 1/2, quality paperbound. ISBN: 0-914046-24-1 $18.95

THE GREAT WAR: Styles and Patterns of the 1910s

edited by R.L.Shep

Contains over 80 primary source patterns with drafting instructions from The American Garment Cutter for Women (1913) including nearly all the patterns from a two year run (1915 & 1916) of the West End Gazette - London Fashions. Garments cover all types of clothing for men and women, plus British military uniforms and civilian uniforms such as Red Cross, policemen, chauffeurs, etc. Many clothing related articles have been included from the West End Gazette, shedding light on the views and controversies surrounding fashion during WWI. Additional illustrations are from a number of middle class American women's magazines and a department store catalog from 1915. 238 pp, 8 1/2 X 11, quality paperbound. ISBN: 0-914046-26-8 $26.95

LATE VICTORIAN WOMEN'S TAILORING: The Direct System of Ladies' Cutting

by T.H. Holding, 1897

Mr Holding was one of the most renowned tailors of his day and his tailoring systems are known for being easy to follow and comprehensive. In this work, instructions are included for both the 'leg o' mutton' sleeve, and the new slimmer sleeve. Such attention to detail makes Holding's systems valuable to the costumer and historian alike. In addition, the attitudes expressed about women and their new-found sense of freedom in the wearing of sportswear will be of historical interest. Includes jackets, skirts, coats, capes, riding and cycling clothes and many pages of braiding diagrams used extensively for trim. Additional illustrations cover accessories and underclothes. This book is valuable to the costumer and historian alike. 192 pp, 8 1/2 X 11, quality paperbound. ISBN: 0-914046-23-3 $19.95

Popular Backlist

CIVIL WAR COOKING: The Housekeeper's Encyclopedia

by Mrs. E.F. Haskell, 1861

Hundreds of recipes plus instructions for putting up foods, production of wine and vinegar, managing servants, entertaining, care of the sick. Sound advice for managing the household while the mate is off to war, and much more, to provide a remarkable picture of home-life in the 1860s. Chuck Hamsa, widely respected reviewer of Civil War reference materials and books states '..... highly recommended for anyone interested in American Society of the mid-nineteenth century.' 464 pp, 8 1/2 X 11, quality paperbound. ISBN: 0-914046-16-0 $29.95

CIVIL WAR ERA ETIQUETTE: Martine's Handbook and Vulgarisms in Conversation (1866)

edited by R.L. Shep

The best etiquette book of the period is combined with a dictionary of vulgarisms and illustrated from Godey's Lady's books and with men's uniforms. 236 pp, 6 X 9, quality paperbound. ISBN: 0-914046-07-1 $15.95

CIVIL WAR GENTLEMEN: 1860's Apparel Arts & Uniform

by R.L. Shep

Broad coverage in this volume includes military and civilian dress, men's and boys' coats, vests, pants, shirts and important accessories, and features a complete period tailoring system in "Salisbury's System of Actual Measurement and Drafting" (1865). Also, photos of soldiers, additional illustrations of clothing, excerpts from the Army uniform regulations for 1861 and a section on the 7th Regiments New York National Guard. Agnes Gawne, reviewer for Somewhere In Time newsletter says: "....wonderful resource for Civil War reenactors, fashion designers, historians and theatrical costumers." 288 pp, 8 1/2 X 11, quality paperbound. ISBN: 0-914046-22-5 $24.95

CIVIL WAR LADIES: Fashions and Needle-Arts of the Early 1860s

edited by R.L.Shep

Primary Source Material reprinted from Peterson's Magazine with hundreds of fashion illustrations, practical instructions and patterns for garments, underwear, accessories, bonnets, caps and hats, etc. Also, Hairstyles, hair jewelry, articles on Correct Dress, Children's Fashions and Parlour Songs and Dance. This is the ultimate book for anyone interested in period sewing, knitting, crochet embroidery, etc. The perfect tool for both research and reenactments. 348 pp, 8 1/2 X 11, quality paperbound. ISBN: 0-914046-09-8 $30.95

COMPLETE GUIDE TO PRACTICAL CUTTING

by Edward Minister & Son, 2nd rev. ed., 1853

A legendary and major work of costume history. The basis for the Minister System, it had a profound influence on the tailoring industry. 2 volumes in 1, covering: full range of men's garments including servants' and livery, some womens' including ladies' polkas and riding habits, English Army, Navy and Civil dress regulations, as well as uniforms. With additional, contemporary, fashion plates. Useful in the making of Early Victorian, Crimean War, Napoleon III (1850s/1860s). A good reference for one of the most elegant periods of men's clothing. 366 pp, 8 1/2 X 11, quality paperbound. ISBN: 0-914046-17-9 $31.95

EDWARDIAN HATS: The Art of Millinery

by Mdme Anna Ben-Yusuf, 1909

Known to be one of the best practical manuals for making hats, plus ribbon decorations and silk flowers. With additional illustrations from period sources. 272 pp, 8 1/2 X 11, quality paperbound. ISBN: 0-914046-15-2 $24.95

LADIES' HAND BOOK: of Fancy and Ornamental Work - Civil War Era (1859)

by Florence Hartley

Practical and detailed instruction book: costume accessories and household articles, embroidery, beading, quilting, applique, tatting etc. With 262 engravings, this book is a must for the Civil War reenactor or enthusiast. 242 pp, 8 1/2 X 11, quality paperbound. ISBN: 0-914046-13-6 $21.95

LADIES' SELF INSTRUCTOR in Millinery and Mantua Making, Embroidery & Applique (1853)

Interesting and practical handbook covering all types of plain and fancy sewing for the period, including embroidery, knitting, crochet, applique and garment making. An American early victorian classic. Embellished with both the original engravings, and others from Godey's Lady's Book for 1853. Historians, embroiders and costumers find this book very valuable. 252 pp, 8 1/2 X 11, quality paperbound. ISBN: 0-914046-08-X $15.95

VICTORIAN NEEDLE-CRAFT: Artistic and Practical

edited by R.L.Shep

A Late Victorian practical manual (published by Butterick, 1889) with instructions for creating household articles, linens, dress accessories, children's articles, as well as period stitches and designs. Offers valuable insight into late 19th century decor and is indispensable to creating authentic Victorian Style. 600+ illustrations including additional material from Household Elegancies (1875). 336 pp, 8 1/2 X 11, quality paperbound. ISBN: 0-914046-21-7 $15.95

Out of print

CORSETS: A Visual History

compiled by R.L.Shep